Chichén Itzá, located in central Yucatán, thrived approximately during the ninth and tenth centuries, and was the most important Postclassic Period Mayan city. It is not certain how long its hegemony lasted, but what it is certain is that it was the most powerful Mayan state and one of the great polities in all Mesoamerica. Its history is still clouded in mystery and there are many contradicting theories and legends.

The first Mayan community in Chichén Itzá built most of the structures in the southern area. However, the main buildings in the central area, including the Pyramid of Kukulkán, the Temple of the Warriors and the Ball Court, are Toltec in design and influence. The Toltecs originated from Central Mexico, one theory suggests that the Toltecs invaded Chichén Itzá and imposed their architectural style on new constructions. Alternatively, we know that the Maya traded extensively and it is possible that they were influenced by the Toltecs in their own architecture. Another more recent theory claims that Tula, capital of the Toltecs, was under the domination of the Maya, resulting in a transfer of style from one city to another. There are fragments of evidence to support each line of thought, but no conclusive evidence for any single theory.

Chichén Itzá means "the mouth of the well of the Itzá", because of the sacred "cenote" in the city, a very deep well where selected victims and a variety of rich offerings were thrown to placate the rain god Chac, according to some.

The Pyramid of Kukulkán
Towering above the other buildings at 98 feet (30 m) high on a square base, the Pyramid of Kukulkán has a structured feel about it. Two of its sides have been completely restored, the other two were left to show the condition before work commenced. Each side had originally 91 steps, adding the platform at the top as a final step there are 365 in total one for every day of the year. Further evidence that this building was linked to the Mayan interests of astronomy and the calendar is demonstrated at the spring and autumn equinox. On these days the shadow of the sun playing on the stairs causes the illusion of a snake processing down the pyramid in the direction of the "cenote". There are usually thousands of people on the site at these times.

The temple at the top of the pyramid has carvings of Chac-Tlatoc, the rain god, and Quetzalcóatl, the feathered serpent god. As at Uxmal, this temple was built over the top of an original structure. In the old temple via a passage under the northern stairway, there is a sculpture of a jaguar, painted red and with jade eyes, exactly as it was discovered.

The Castillo

The Ball Court (Juego de Pelota)
From the Pyramid of Kukulkán, head north-east to the Great Ball Court, the largest of its kind in the Maya world. There are others much smaller ball courts at Chichén Itzá and more in other Maya cities, but this one was deliberately built on a much grander scale than any others were. The length of the playing field here is 40 feet (135 m) and two 25 feet (8 m) high walls run alongside the field.

The Great Ball Court

The game itself involved two teams, each able to hit the ball only with elbows, wrists or hips, and the object was to knock the ball through one of the stone hoops on the walls of the court.

Players of the ball game had to pass the rubber ball through these small hoops without using their hands to score points.

In the carvings on the lower wall of the court there are clear depictions of one team member with blood spurting from his headless neck, whilst another holds the head aloft. Some people think the captain of the losing side was executed by the winner; others suggest that the winners earned an honorable sacrifice. No one knows for sure. It is said that the game was used either as a method of settling disputes, or as an offering to the gods, perhaps in times of drought. Only the best were selected to play, and to be sacrificed in this way was a great honor.

The acoustics here are superb - a low voice at one end of the court can be heard clearly at the other end. It is said that only the noblest could attend the court itself, the general population having to listen from outside.

This scene, at the Great Ball Court, shows the sacrifice of a ball-game player.

Temple of the Jaguars and the Tzompantli
From the ball court, head east across the central area towards the Group of the Thousand columns where the Temple of the Jaguars with its friezes of the Toltec jaguar emblem, and the Tzompantli or Platform of the skulls are located.

The Temple of the Jaguars

It is believed that the Tzompantli (a Toltec word) was the platform used for the sacrifices resulting from the ball game.

Jaguar - at the entrance portico of the Temple of the Jaguars

Sacred Cenote
There is a pathway heading north; this is actually the route of an ancient "sacbe" (see Cobá) that leads to the Sacred Cenote.

A cenote is a sinkhole in the limestone bed, accessing an underwater river. These cenotes were very important to the Mayans as their main source of water and had great religious significance. As you can see in the photo it is a deep almost circular hole with steep sides and dark murky green water beneath.

The Sacred Cenote

Temple of the Warriors-Group of the Thousand Columns
The Group of the Thousand Columns incorporates the Temple of the Warriors and a series of columns, some of which feature carvings of Toltec warriors. It is believed that the columns originally supported a thatched roof, which may have been used as a market place.

The Temple of the Warriors is dedicated to the god Kukulkán. The temple itself displays another aspect of Toltec architecture the use of "Atlantean figures", or statues supporting the altar. The statues are warriors, each with the appearance of a different racial type. It is unclear as to whether these designs were accidental or whether the Maya were really aware of the diversity of the human race.

There is also a large Chac Mool sculpture, again a feature of Central Mexico rather than Yucatecan design. The reclining figure holds a bowl, that was used for sacrificial offering.

The Temple of the Warriors

The Caracol or the Observatory
At the southern area of the ruins there are other constructions, thought to house the oldest constructions, and is predominantly Mayan in design. The most impressive structure is the Caracol, named for its curved inner stairway reminiscent of a snail. Also known as the Observatory, this tower was used for astronomy its windows were aligned with the four cardinal directions and the position of the setting sun at the equinoxes.

The Observatory

Other structures
Chichén Itzá has variety of other structures. One of them is The Church (La Iglesia), is in relatively poor condition. La Iglesia has depictions of the four bacabs; these creatures (the crab, armadillo, snail and tortoise) were believed to be responsible for holding up the heavens.

Chitchén Itzá was first described by American John Lloyd Stephens in his book Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan (two volumes, 1843)
The symbolism of the cult of the Feathered Serpent is found throughout the city.



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